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Posts tagged ‘Marais’

Move over macarons! There’s a new “it” pastry in town!

Cream puffs from Popelini, Paris

Paris. Thank you New York Times for reminding to write about the gorgeous cream puffs at the recently opened Popelini. A few weeks ago “Fireball” and I were wandering around the neighborhood trying to locate the white-hot taqueria-cum-speakeasy Candelaria (for future dining purposes) when we chanced upon a pretty pastry shop with an eye catching window display of uniform confections: cool cream puffs topped with solid colored icing arranged in perfect rows. We went in and bought just one vanilla pâte à choux, a rookie mistake as it turned out. The cream filling was so cold and dense that it felt more like a fancy little ice cream sandwich. What’s more, it was both heartier and more refreshing than the puny macaron. We hadn’t walked three steps up the road before we both nodded to each other and sheepishly turned back in for another, this time chocolate. Though considerably richer than its vanilla counterpart, we had no problem polishing off the chocolate one as well. The only thing that kept us from going back for a third was an overriding sense of patriotic shame. We simply couldn’t be THOSE American tourists, hellbent on obesity at any cost!

Chocolate Cream puff from Popelini, Paris

Practical Info: Popellini is located at 29 Rue Debelleyme in the 3rd. Open Tuesday to Sunday, 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. 


Resto Review: Le Colimaçon, Marais

Foie Gras, Le Colimaçon, Paris

I enjoyed an impeccable meal at le Colimaçon in the Marais on Friday night which commenced with some of the best foie gras I’ve had since arriving in Paris. The dish was roasted in a kind of fruity rind so that a light smoky sweetness infused the meaty liver. The combination of flavors was further enhanced by a sprinkling of chunky sea salt. Just perfect!

Seabass, Le Colimaçon, Paris

The seabass was served whole in a crunchy crust that was complimented by a savory saffron risotto. I had a hard time negotiating the fish bones as I am not accustomed to eating a fish like that, but nonetheless each tender morsel of meat I managed to pick off was well worth the effort!

Le Délice, Le Colimaçon, Paris

For dessert, the délice was a pleasing mix of fresh and dried fruits with a smooth cream finish in a lovely presentation, though I must admit it was just slightly too sweet for my taste.

As for wine, our knowledgeable waitress paired a delightfully light and fruity white with our meal that managed to compliment the various flavors of each course.

Practical Info:

Le Colimaçon serves traditional French cuisine with a Mediterranean infusion. Dinner service 7 days a week. Entrée+Plat or Plat+Dessert menus for 24€ as well as à la carte.

44 Rue Vieille du Temple in the 4th. For reservations call 01 48 87 12 01.

Photos: Paris Street Art

Scene from the 4th:

"Graffiti" Impasse de l'Hotel d'Argenson, Paris 4th

Scene from the 13th arrondissement:

Street Art Rue de la Poterne des Peupliers

"Graffiti" Rue de la Poterne des Peupliers, Paris 13th

"Graffiti" Rue de la Poterne des Peupliers, Paris 13th

Sunday Brunch in the Marais

The culture of Le Brunch is still in its infancy in Paris. Diners are scarce and most cafés consider a cheeseburger to be an acceptable brunch dish (let’s not forget this is a city of people who frequently eat omelettes for dinner. It’s all inverted). So discovering Bar du Marché des Blancs Manteaux this morning was a godsend. Their 22€ brunch buffet features an eye-catching array of fruits: wedges of pomegranate, mini bananas, perfectly ripe strawberries, generous chunks of mango, papaya, kiwi, cantaloupe, pineapple. For hot foods there’s your standard scrambled eggs and bacon, and a do it yourself pancake station. There’s pasta salad with baby calamari, sliced tomatoes with seafood salad, finger croque monsieur sandwiches, and several quiches. There are cold cuts of roast beef, smoked salmon, and herring, and loads of cheese. It’s positively heavenly.

Terrace at Bar du Marché, Paris

Brunch Buffet, Bar du Marché, Paris

Assortment of fruits, Brunch at Bar du Marché, Paris

Practical Info:

Bar du Marché des Blancs Manteaux serves a Sunday brunch buffet for 22€ a head, includes orange or grapefruit juice and filtered American style coffee. Free Wifi.

48 rue Vieille du Temple in the 4th. Telephone: 01 42 71 14 14.

Marais my way: hotdogs, frozen yogurt, and dirty books

Living up in the Oberkampf region of Paris is great: it’s not too expensive, touristy, or pretentious (yet). But most places of interest (bars, restaurants, museums, shops, etc) are concentrated towards the center of town. And in order to get to the center of town, I spend a lot of time meandering the crowded streets of the Marais.

Hot dogs make me so happy!

There is one block in particular that has become my favorite pit stop on my way home from “town”: the beginning of Rue du Vieille du Temple. I start at the hole in the wall hotdog establishment called Mosaique, where the proprietor fishes out a boiled hotdog from a basin, pops it in a extra chewy bun (you know how Wonderbread has that peculiar way of sticking to the roof of your mouth? That’s the kind of bun I’m talking about), slathers it in onion relish, and places it tenderly on a cooling rack shaped like a wiener dog. Then he smears on my condiments of choice and leaves me to artfully add pickles and crispy fried onions to my heart’s content!

Mango and oreo toppings. Not a recommended combination.

With hot dog in hand (and in mouth) I walk up the block in the direction of home. It only takes a minute for me to finish my “chien chaud” just in time for my second course: My Berry (the french version of the popular U.S. frozen yogurt chain Pink Berry). I opt for plain yogurt doused in kiwi, mango, pineapple, and raspberry, just to round out the color palette. I slurp that down within a minute or two as well, which is convenient since by now I’m already entering the dessert phase of the evening: the dirty photography bookshop.

Deceptively PG window display at Les Mots à la Bouche

I never bother hanging out upstairs at the dirty bookshop. I honestly couldn’t tell you what’s up there. I know for a fact that the good stuff is all in the basement anyway. The most interesting book I’ve found in there is a handbook for “pony-play” fetishists, or in other words, people into dressing up as horses and getting freaky. Freaky indeed.

So that about wraps up my personalized tour of the Marais. It will take a total of 20 minutes, depending on how fast you walk, how hungry you are, and how long you can stand to be in a dirty bookshop before feeling like a creep. To be fair, I eat really fast but I also walk REALLY slow (to give you an idea, in college I got kicked out of a walking club for being too slow), which gives me plenty of time to a) eat the hotdog before I get to the frozen yogurt shop, b) eat the the frozen yogurt before I get to the dirty bookshop, but then c) look just long enough at dirty books to satisfy my curiosities but not long enough to feel pervy or obliged to buy anything.

Timing really is everything.

Practical Info:

Mosaique, for hot dogs, 43 Rue du Roi de Sicile (hot dogs 3 euro a pop).

My Berry, for frozen yogurt, 25 Rue Vieille du Temple.

Les Mots a La Bouche, for dirty books, 6 Rue St. Croix la Bretonnerie.